Our Pro-Series Carburetors with customer specs will be shipped within five days. Step 5: Remove Metering Block A few taps with a plastic hammer should easily dislodge the metering block from the main body. This obviously results in lousy fuel economy, spark plug fouling, poor idle quality, and black smoke from the tailpipe. You will be surprised and the garbage that is left in the bottom of the crock pot. As mentioned earlier, the accelerator pump levers and cams are easy to remove from the baseplate. If necessary, use a small flat-blade screwdriver as a pry tool between the baseplate and lever.
This allows you to hold the carb steady while cracking the fittings loose. Under the Magnuson - Moss Warranty Act, 15U. Traditional Rodding With Carbureted Mills is Much More Affordable. Notice the small port with a gasket on the backside of the vacuum unit. Turn the main body upside-down to let this needle valve drop out. Each fuel-bowl screw seals to the fuel bowl with a sealing washer. Throttle Plates Inspect the throttle plates for damage.
It pushed the choke plate rod up and caused the choke plate to close. The lever is positioned onto the throttle shaft with engaging flats. Nevertheless, the consumer may feel uneasy about using replacement filters that are not original equipment. Choke Fast-Idle Cam Inspect the plastic fast idle cam behind the choke housing for wear, breaks, cracks, etc. This solvent is available in both 1- and 5-gallon buckets.
Depending on the specific carburetor, an internal in-line screen or sintered bronze fuel filter may be present. More shots of the nastiness - this shot also shows the bowl vent extensions white plastic things that came on this carb. Re: Holley carb rebuild, pictures and some how to. The legendary Holley 3310 was born. Float Removal The 4150 and 4500 carbs have center-hung floats; the 4160 carbs have side-hung floats. Kudos to Mike Mavrigian and the folks at CarTech for providing yet another great How-To book.
The legendary Double Pumper, the universal 600-cfm 1850 models, the Dominator, and now the Avenger have stood the test of time and are the leading carburetors in the high-performance engine market. A dedicated cleaning basket shown drops inside a 5-gallon bucket. Remove the from and rear 780 fuel level site screws and note a metal gasket. I realize many of you have probably rebuilt more of these things than I have - and I welcome your additions here. Remove while idling and the gas should be at the bottom of the threads. Terms and length vary by product.
This carburetor is popular among racing enthusiasts because of its secondary bowl and metering assembly, which allows for the addition of a secondary fuel pump and power valve for increased performance. You need to verify that it operates as designed. We strive for perfection, and welcome the opportunity to correct any issues with your order. These typically remain in good condition, but check to make sure there is no damage that would inhibit operation. Tipping the file results in uneven surfacing, potentially ruining the main body. A carb rebuild kit includes this.
The 3310 model 4150 was the production carb for the legendary Z16 Chevelle. Originally rated at 400 cfm, this carburetor was updated to flow 780 cfm and reissued as original equipment for the 425-horsepower Z16 Chevelle. Step 9: Replace Spring The Avenger series has a modular vacuum secondary assembly that allows the spring to be replaced without the need to remove the entire vacuum unit from the carb. Inspect the vacuum secondary diaphragm closely, for cracks, splits, tears, or aged rubber and replace if any damage is found. Step 1: Remove Fuel Bowl Float A center-hung fuel bowl, as on 4150- and 4500-series carbs, secures to the inside upper center of the fuel bowl with two screws.
Step 1: Remove Accelerator Pump Use a Phillips-style drive to remove the four screws securing the accelerator pump to the bottom of the fuel bowl. The choke rod is secured with a small hairpin that must be removed first. Step 2: Remove Float Bowl Screw and Hex Nut Remove the locking screw and hex nut. Step 3: Inspect Fuel Transfer Tube Critical Inspection This 4160 has a single fuel feed at the primary bowl and an external fuel transfer tube that routes fuel to the secondary bowl from the primary bowl. A flat-blade screwdriver may be used, but a much better tool choice is a dedicated jet driver such as the one offered by Holley. You haven't gotten there yet, but one tip I want to be sure gets pointed out is the safety glasses or goggles whenever you are using the carb cleaner either the spray or the dunk style. File very carefully to avoid creating an uneven surface.
I don't think anyone will be disappointed. Use a small pick to remove this gasket. The power valve includes a sealing gasket. One small, thin metal sealing washer is under the screw head and one is at the bottom of the nozzle unit. Well - that's what I have for now. Mike won the Jesse H. Needle and Seat Removal 4150 On a 4150 or 4500 carb, the needle and seat assembly in the primary and secondary fuel bowls are located at the top center of each fuel bowl.