Anyway, this is getting frustrating, thoughts? Once removed, use engine degreaser or braker cleaner to carefully clean the bronze metal screen towards the bottom of the reservoir. It is superb to drive with now. Loosen the upper shock absorber bolts. And for the tire pressure monitoring system, unfortunately i don't believe there's a way to disable it without seeing the warning on the cluster. Smooth style stitch looks nice too. That is when I replaced the valve with the bolt and blocked the vacuum lines.
Also, you need sufficient pressure. Install snap ring in steering knuckle. Using steering knuckle oil seal replacer and axle hub and drive pinion bearing tool set, press axle hub into steering knuckle. I don't sit behind a desk and I certainly have a lot of mechanical experience. It is held so tightly with zip ties that the shifter won't move. Then remove the front bolt below that shaded red. I can hear it slightly moving but I have no up n down movement.
My other question is whether i have a problem with the speed sensitive power steering, like it is stuck in stiff mode all the time even at low speed driving. I find it so tight and fiddly in there that I too just cut the blue sheath in half and rejoined it afterwards with those blue crimp butt joiners. I ask your company for information so I don't spend time taking things off I don't need to. It'll show on the forum. Thanks for being a trail blazer man. I did a search yesterday and found that link. Afterwards the white wires will have to be threaded back down the gearstick.
I can't be positive that they're all swappable across models, but I can say that many Toyota wheels fit on multiple vehicles. I used fingers and a butter knife to gently lever the piece up. Do you have a manual? This process is similiar to what it said to do in the lexus factory repair manual, anyway i'm happy not have problems with any valves! We will then refinish, repaint, add wood grain, carbon fiber and new Leather to customize or restore your Lexus parts. Everything bolts up the same, connectors are the same, cruise control lever is the same, and the air bag bolts on the same as well. On my '94, I used a turkey baster to suck the fluid out of the resivoir and then refilled with new fluid. Install front wheels, and lower vehicle.
Remove 2 retaining bolts and steering knuckle from lower ball joint. I did this a couple of times. Sometime later at about 170K, the bypass valve started leaking. Remove the pump by sliding it back off the bolt shaft highlighted in yellow in step 12. Once this is done, installation of all components is reverse of removal.
Let your mechanic do it for you, it's not easily accessible from the top. On my '91, the pump itself was leaking first. Tighten 2 lower ball joint bolts to specification. I don't think this pump got too bad before replacing it, it did not leak, so i didn't know it had a problem until it started to grind, which it had a slight whine to it since i bought the car. The fluid was already pretty dirty and had a strange smell to it after only a few days. If you hear a grinding noise.
There are metal tabs that hold the lid on around the circumference of the reservoir that need to be bent out in order to remove it. Since the old pump was grinding, maybe you have some debris in the system. My first thought is if it is a remanufactured steering rack and pump, there could be a bushing, or other item, that was not replaced correctly. Place steering knuckle and hub in a soft-jawed vise. It sits directly under the steering column and it very easy to remove. The wheel travels up and down some, but I'm guessing not all that it is supposed to.
Main thing is make sure you disconnect the and wait at least 90 seconds for the airbag circuits to discharge. Take a look at our many where you will see pictures of our work by make and model. As you tighten the bolt, it will pull the studs out. Replace the copper crush washers when reinstalling. While applying brakes, loosen axle shaft nut.