I would ask them to help with something at the very least! You can order online or by phoning or emailing us. However, I think I'm just going to try to baby it for a while until I save some money. I went with the dxd stage 3 endurance clutch. Alas, I was stuck with the same predicament that you are in. I went Southbend stage 2 daily.
If you need to do this, it means your input shaft in not in line with the disk. It was at Stage 2 for 30k of those miles and then on a custom tune with an F23T for the other 15k miles and counting. We recommend this clutch kit for vehicles with upgraded turbo kits or extended heavy track use. If you are an active contributor to the sub, you are already approved to edit. In its defense tho I feel like shifting is so much better.
Proven to hold strong under the most demanding of conditions, yet with stock levels of noise and vibration, and no noticeable increase in pedal effort. The day I did ball joints, tie rod ends and control arm bushings felt longer and more frustrating than a clutch job. Using a transmission jack, finagle the transmission out of its home. Flywheel, pressure plate and clutch disk surfaces are not visible without considerable disassembly. I want to go stage 2 eventually, so I just wanted a rough number.
If it's slipping under load then you should be ok for a bit if you drive normal. I certainly wouldn't rush to change the clutch. I'm frustrated and I just need to vent. Use a small flat head screwdriver and pry up the retaining clip on the supply nipple red arrow. I escalated it and she talked to her supervisor with the same response. I highly recommend changing out the flywheel because like you said, you don't want to have to open up the tranny to replace it in the future.
Don't go nuts with lube as you don't want it to fling off onto your disk. Remove pressure plate and flywheel and throw away flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts. I got my car into the dealership and as expected, they told me it was wear on the clutch and was not covered. Bench bleed the new slave cylinder in a jug of fluid so it's not filled with air when you reinstall the transmission. Clutch and flywheel both looked like they could have gone back in. Clutch started slipping a week ago when I hit the gas moderately hard.
There's fairly frequent discussion of what you should consider. Had it for 2 months. Returns will be refused if the part is not: - In the original packaging and undamaged. When the clutch is disengaged, it separates the engine and the transmission for a moment so that you can change gears. You have a car that can accelerate very quickly, the downside is the tires and the drivetrain have to try to get all that power to the tarmac. Once the transmission is in place, torque the transmission to spec using new bolts.
I am currently at 70k miles and about 15k miles ago I noticed some slipping during winter time. The engagement is so clean now. I went with your option 2 Edit option 3, I suck at reading. Be sure break-in use consists of generous stop and go as well as shifting, the slipping action as the clutch is engaged is what facilitates the break-in process. There were multiple issues with chatter and difficult engagement. The sub frame does not need to be removed. These new Lightweight Flywheel and Clutch Kits are offered in 5 different stages, to meet a variety of applications.
The stage 2 daily is rated for 400 ft lbs tq. This is not the easiest job in the world; it does require mechanical skill, a good set of tools, and attention to detail. I just don't understand this. Just a few small drops of oil can permeate the clutch disk and cause slippage. Once the battery tray is removed, you now have access to the top of the transmission.
Take a look at your clutch engagement system at the first sign of trouble, before you do any damage to these more expensive parts. Are the complaints about the weight, noise, and bite of the Southbend warranted? Idk if that helps, long story short of you find out what throttle position makes it slip and stay below it you're good. I have a Malone Stage 2 tune and full Rawtek exhaust, so it chatters a bit under load. Do flywheels typically wear out during the normal lifespan of the car? I think that is more than enough for your one day stage 2 tune. Does anyone have a recommendation for a clutch kit that would be my best bet? You just won't be super fast is all. The good news is you can continue to drive it until you can afford a replacement.