I was told that when replacing the fuel pump, you need to lube the big O-Ring that seals the pump to the tank to keep it from twisting when sliding the new fuel pump down into the tank. If all wiring and sensor checks out the next and last step is replace pcm. Any thoughts on doing this? When I clear the code I can drive it without comming on untill I shut the vehice off and start it back up again. Then code 12 means system is okay … and no codes presant. Testing procedure is complicated,but I would say the sensor is not putting out enough current to the computer so it don't know if you are wide open or sitting at a red light. Does the tank need to be totally removed? Here are some things to check first Check for an open in the 5 V reference circuit.
It seems to be running rough at times, so I think it might be something else. Is the Fuel Tank Pressure sensor voltage near the specified value? When I release the pressure on the pressure gage the fuel pressure only goes up to 43 lbs untill I let the motor cool for a little bit, then the pressure is 54 lbs. Did you leave the gas cap lose or off or fill it up with engine running or run the tank on empty? Refer to in Wiring Systems. Should of left the damn thing in the showroom where it is protected. I've had my light on with the P0452 code for about a year now. I also change the purge selonoid. Refer to in Wiring Systems.
In principle a fuel pressure sensor malfunction will not cause a serious concern in driveabilty but it will mask any other codes that may affect engine as evap codes are always set as priority due to emissions laws. I always woundered why things sometimes pert near always seem to be differcult to me. This can cause the system to suck in liquid fuel as opposed to vapors when the Evap test runs. No skin off my back when some guy can fix his own car. The only problem I have is. Now if you dont have a scan data tool. Took a tour of the place, but felt like I was in a prison.
If the 'check engine' light comes on within 15-20 seconds or so, chances are either the connection … to the sensor is poor, or the sensor is bad open. Same code, and my friend did all the troubleshooting already suggested. Always stay almost empty or full after a code clearing? I'm a combat disabled vet and cutting the floor worked for me, instead of dropping the tank. I have an emissions test in July and would like to pass. I just can't get enough of seeing that video. I have a 1994 S10 and have had to replace two handles so far. I'll keep you posted if I figure the problem out.
The following shows how the values compare: in H2O in Hg psi 1in H2O 0. With the tank pressurized, it can go down towards 0. In this case, it's telling you that it's not. Your vehicle is not much different, but the code is stored in flashram much like your digital camera, claim the life of retaining code in a flashram is ten years, you are already past that stage, could be your code is corrupted. I have to go with you have a bad fuel tank pressure sensor. Very impressive use of fossil fuel.
And the two times it popped up was on very cold damp days. If no 'check engine' light within 20-30 seconds, let car continue to run for a few minutes. You need to jump the signal and the reference and monitor the take parameter on a scan data you should read reference voltage. Reconnect neg battery terminal and with the jumper between the connector and the knock sensor still in place, start the car. Here goes my tale of woes. I have read on the internet that everything from filling your tank too full to bad hoses can cause this code to set.
But it can't do that if there are any leaks in the fuel system, such as the gas cap as already suggested, or it can be that pressure sensor itself. Shut off car, then disconnect the connector to the knock sensor. If you have a hard 'check engine' light, try this. Start by checking the wiring leading to the throttle body because of the hesitation. If you have no other codes that flash.
I think I read autozone pumps for the S's are junk because it last about a year only. I also change the purge selonoid. Each cheap aftermarket pump dies out in about a year. The other thing is that you should not fill the tank completely full to the very top when refueling. Run a jumper between the pigtail and the sensor, making sure you have good and solid contact to both.
I think bank 2 is the one on the right as you sit in the car looking forward. Now I guess the question is are you going to hold his hand doing all of that? When the vehicle is parked, one valve opens permitting gas tank pressure to release through the charcoal canister, have to do that or else with the heat of the day, the tank would explode due to fume expansion. First of all make sure your fuel cap is on tight as this may be the cause. The Fuel Tank Pressure sensor display on the scan tool has an auto zero feature which occurs at each ignition cycle and is corrected according to the barometric pressure. The dealer recommended a replacement of the fuel tank pressure sensor.