This left side view shows the correct installed position of the watts link bellcrank. Replaced both wheel bearings and hub assemblies. It appears to be a one-off or prototype from Ravenworks. Not sure if problem due to inner tie-rod or other component. Twice if the same item might just have one. They were replaced under warranty and it now is making the same sound. Car was at dealership for approximately one week mostly waiting for parts.
My guess is that the holes are spot on. I also just did a search on my Mitchell repair program and it came back with nothing found? It was done about 6 years ago, but not correctly done. Dealer claimed there was a defective part. Right front wheel had a bad vibrations. Found loose tie rod end. So bad that a loud popping noise was heard over slightest bump and around turns. I'm curious which lateral links you ordered because the Moog bolt's hole for the cotter pin went a little too far past the castle nut for me on both links.
Not replaced yet as the part is hard to obtain and garage wants to look at car again 91935 km £300 Stabiliser bar replaced. Can't complain, this was an original part. The Moog's holes are centered in a way. Possibly related to another driver hitting my car in May of last year. Look at the Chrysler page chrysler.
I was wondering if I could get an opinion on these Watts links. As preventive measure besides the bearings, I replaced the front rotors and brake pads. Replaced rear Watts linkage bushing with 2 roller bearings. . What do you guys think? You may need the alignment anyway with certain parts replaced. Suspected left outer tie rod.
I was wondering if I could get an opinion on these Watts links. Ate front end parts like nobody's business. The Moog's holes are centered in a way. Factory original and Mopar replacement. Dealer flushes and fills system again, but continues to insist there is no problem. I had planned to return the Dorman at the top to RockAuto because the holes were so far off but the new Moog replacement I got doesn't look so hot either.
Once they were apart, and cleaned up, they're more cooperative. Replaced outer tie-rod ends on both sides. Break was discovered during state yearly inspection, and oil change was requested and performed at the same inspection was requested. The scissors-style jaw joint separator tool is a very handy specialty tool for joint separation in a wide range of service applications. I assume it to be the Watts linkage bushings.
Pump is also replaced, in case it is putting out too high pressure and blowing the seals. Loved the look and style, but it was too much trouble. Replaced links on both sides. I contacted Rock Auto and I'm exchanging the Dorman watts link, the holes were too far off center anyways, for a Moog. The tool is adjustable to accommodate up to a two-inch spread for different size ball joints. I can find the watts linkage with ease, but I'm not too sure on the bushings. Does one need special tools or is this reasonably simple, also would the bushings be a dealer or an aftermarket part? One front stabilizer bar link broken, other one badly bent.
Repaired required to pass Annual Safety Inspection. What do you guys think? There is so much wrong with the clearances of the stock watts system and attaching fasteners that even if they were off I doubt the effect would be a problem? Wheel bearings needed to be replaced. Here's the rear axle viewed from the rear. Yeah, I had to take a look at it. Is that enough metal to consider safe or should I consider returning the Moog as well? Were worn, had noises from the front end. Clunking in the rear when going over bumps.