The Ford 1968 Shop Manual describes a special tool, part T64K-44890-B for this task on page 17-91, and gives a rather vague picture. Most cars had the rod in the middle position on the right for tension. I clipped a large pair of vise grips on the end pointing straight out towards side of car , then clamped a pair of vise grips onto that pair of vise grips so I could twist the first pair of vice grips. Repeat for the piece with the insulation on it but reverse what I said about right and left side. I added a second torsion rod on the other side and the trunk alignment problem was gone. I just didnt want to do this like an angry madman only to find out that there is some simple way that they would just slide in and out. Hope it'll help someone else.
Sorry I did not step up to the challenge. Make sure the wrench is seated well because it could slip around on you and cause your paint some damage and maybe even you. I had a number of fruitless attempts to get the first bar installed while the bar either popped out of the tool bad! My trunk lid don't stay open. Next, I took the rod without the insulation and put the rounded loop part of the bar to the right of the trunk. With the trunk lid up and the curved part of the torsion bar against the rear trunk wall, I slipped the box end of the combo wrench around the torsion bar. I wasnt planning on removing the rear glass just yet because I want the car to stay dry until I finish stripping the interior,but I would rather have a little water in the car then pop the rear glass.
I didnt get a pic of hinges but the right one definately runs at a angle whilst the left one id straight. I might make up one of those tools and do my hinges up right. Without getting too specific and confusing I'll try to explain the process I went through with 3 steps. The final step was to chop out a V shape in the extraneous side of the angle with my new four inch cutting wheel, and bend it in the vise note: the reason for the bend is that the tool has to be short in order to fit in the space available, yet strong enough to provide sufficient leverage. Someone else had a notch cut in the end of a piece of pipe that fit over the torsion rod end. Material may not be copied or reprinted without written permission. Now comes the fun part.
There are two torque bars in the trunk. I was so scared of it that I avoided for a long time. This Trunk Lid Hinge Torsion Rod for all 1965 and 1966 Mustang Fastbacks is a great choice as a direct replacement part to make sure your trunk stays open when you want it to. Hope it'll help someone else. I didn't have any flat bar lying around, so I started off with a piece of one inch angle that came from an old bed frame. Remove the extension and slip off the wrench. Then I wedged some paint stir sticks in the side gaps, climbed into the trunk from underneath, and tightened down the hinge bolts.
Reading posts above, mine is on a fastback with a spoiler, so it's got all the tension possible on both rods to hold it up. You can easily install both of your torsion bars in 5 minutes! I think it took me about two seconds to realize I couldn't possibly perform the installation with my bare hands. Anybody have any experience installing the trunk torsion rod in 71 Cuda? Thanks for posting this as it helps a lot. Even with my new tool however, it was hardly plain sailing from this point on. Until you stand there and look at it, it will remain unclear.
With the trunk lid up and the curved part of the torsion bar against the rear trunk wall, I slipped the box end of the combo wrench around the torsion bar. I didnt get a pic of hinges but the right one definately runs at a angle whilst the left one id straight. Now use the extension again to push down and put the roller plastic, metal bearing onto the peg. I flipped the picture right side up below. Remove the extension and slip off the wrench.
The deck lid will not stay up Attached Files Thumbnail s Didn't know about any such tool when I did mine, I just used a big set of Vise Grips to wind the tension on and another set to hold the other end in place. I could not find one and had to make it. I was being careful, so I never came close to losing a finger, but the noise the torsion bar made when it smacked against the inside of the trunk was incredible. It is a 2-man operation. Bottom line, the tab end of the spring short end must be unsprung and pried out of its perch on the side of the trunk hinge.
This is the plan for how to make the tool. I enjoy updating our house, making improvements to the farm and tooling around outside in general, playing guitar and piano, camping, and, in a past life, mixing sound. And I get to come home to my almost-dream car make it a 69 Mach 1 and then it's my real dream car. The trunk lid hinge torsion rods are used to connect the trunk lid hinges and act as a spring to keep tension on the trunk lid when it's open and prevent it from falling closed on its own. They are independent publications and are not affiliated with or endorsed by or. The trick is that in order to do this you must twist the bar to get the proper angle on it to loop it around this hook.
I then used one hand to lower the trunk a little to get the right end in place easier. You need to position the spring with the bushing on it against the hinge and set it into the slot just under the panel behind your backglass. I'm an Iowa transplant and play a scientist for a large animal health company by day, and an aspiring car restoration wanna-be by night. I feel your pain and total anxiety when doing these torsion bars. To make a long story short.