If you have the factory setup, pull up on the clutch pedal and depress it. But there's no reason why the clutch in your one truck should be so fatiguing to operate, especially in comparison to your other truck. Im thinking it has to be the clutch. As a clutch wears, the pedal action will grow heavier assuming self-adjusting hydraulic clutch, which is pretty standard now. Using a floor jack that is recommended for the weight of the vehicle, lift under the vehicle at its specified jacking points until the wheels are completely off the ground. Had two problems, the gay cable i had was wore out and coming apart inside and the quadrant had only one hole in it and had slipped off the clutch pedal a little bit.
If you hear a squealing noise, it's probably the pilot bearing or bushing. It was very hard to find. Should i just unscrew the floor plate and clean the area? I'll bet tonights 12 pack on the fact that it will solve your clutch pedal effort problem. As others have said make sure you have routed the cable properly. If you hear something, it's most likely a problem with the transmission. I read on this forum about lubricating the clutch spring.
Hope this helps, Good Luck. It is quite old but it still doesnt slip. Step 3: Remove the jack stands and keep them far away from the vehicle. It's only when the clutch disc is slipping against the flywheel that wearing occurs. I know I am wimpy, but does anyone know an easy way to improve this? So today after fighting with the cable again i took it off and put the stock one back on the pedal is cake to push now so i don't know what the deal was with the new one maybe i just got a new on, i still need to figure out a way to take out some free play in the pedal, would a firewall adjuster take care of this for me? I would have to say that either the slave cylinder is binding slightly, or the pressure plate has stiffer springs than the original. Sometimes a blockage or worn seals in the hydraulic system can also cause a hard clutch.
All is back to normal. Used a q-tip dipped in oil to just get a few drops into each bushing area neatly. Also, when was the last time the clutch was replaced if ever? I'm not familiar with the Fiesta, but since even much larger cars with much strong clutch assemblies don't have hydraulic pumps, I'd expect that it doesn't have one. The old one still has all the info you need though. Make sure that the transmission is in park for automatics or in first gear for manuals.
If you don't hear a noise, proceed to step four. Look for any external damage to the slave cylinder. The jack stands should go under the jacking point locations. One year I rebuilt the pedal cluster - there are about 4 pairs of plastic bushings, I could find none in bronze, except for the throttle crank. Vehicles that are equipped with a clutch and manual transmission require more attention than a vehicle that has an automatic transmission. Thanks - can you show me with a photo or diagram where to put the oil? Yes I had to do that as well.
I quickly nursed it home and parked it in the driveway. Step 2: Check the slave cylinder if your vehicle has a hydraulic clutch pedal. I live in Slidell, if you would like drive over here we will put the car on the lift, bleed your slave cylinder, clean out the pedal area and see if that helps. If not cared for, clutches can start to break down at 35,000 miles. I put in a new cable and quadrant with adjustable fire wall mount to see if it would help. If the problem of the vehicle needs attention now, you will need to perform a repair of the. Hello Everyone, Last week while driving to work the clutch in my 1996 Ranger, 2x2, 2.
Ill let you guys know if the clutch was the prob. When they are locked together, the friction material is held tightly against the flywheel, and they spin in sync. Pic is for ref and not my car. Step 3: Raise the vehicle. Use it to see what a hell is going on inside.
The car has 120,000 but i don't have any maintenance records to speak of so I have no idea what has been done or not done. Now I'm afraid to take it out for fear this will happen in traffic! Step 5: Remove the wheel chocks from the rear wheels and put the aside. Hydraulic clutches make it easier to operate than mechanical ones. I had a manual Dodge Dakota pickup with about 100k miles on it, and it was experiencing the same issue. But upon removal of the transmission and internal inspection, I found everything ok.
At no other time does the clutch pedal feel this way, car can not run and sit for days with no issues, car can be idling for long periods or I can be driving around and shifting gears for long periods of time without any issue. The last S-10 I owned had an easier clutch than both my current S-10 and the Camaro. I hopped in tried to push in the clutch and it would not go down! Step 5: Remove the wheel chocks from the rear wheels and put the aside. Once you've gone through the labor of dropping the transmission out, its worth the extra few bucks to replace those wear and tear parts even if they haven't gone out yet. Put the cap back on and check the shaft in the back of the clutch master cylinder for any breakage or damage. Bad design, i changed it.